Jewelry Metals Guide

There couldn't be fine jewelry without metals—and the variety of metals available makes jewelry affordable for just about anyone. If you're wondering what metals are best for jewelry, the best answer is—it depends.

Zales offers jewelry made with traditional metals like gold, silver, and platinum, along with modern metals like tungsten, stainless steel, titanium, and more. Here's a look at what kinds of metals are popular in jewelry and how they are used today.
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Gold Jewelry

A timeless choice for all types of jewelry, gold is the most easily worked of all metals because it is naturally very malleable. To create gold jewelry that is strong and durable, pure gold is alloyed with other metals, such as copper or zinc, to add strength and color.

Zales commonly uses yellow gold, rose gold, and white gold in its jewelry. Here’s what sets each type apart:

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Gold Karat


To determine the karat gold used in a piece of jewelry, check its markings, also called its hallmark. This is usually found on the inside of the shank or the reverse side of a pendant, earring, or bracelet. Here's what to look for:

Karat Gold Hallmarks

Karat Measure Hallmarks Hardness Gold Purity
24 karat - Softest 100%
22 karat 916/22K Softer 91.6%
18 karat 750/18K Average 75.0%
14 karat 585/14K Harder 58.8%
10 karat 417/10K Hardest 41.7%

Alternative Metals

In addition to the big three metals—platinum, gold, and silver—modern options are making their way onto the jewelry scene. They're especially popular with men, who like the lightweight feel and added durability. Here are a few of our favorites:

How to Choose the Right Metal

Intrinsic Value

Intrinsic value equates to a metal's basic worth. Metal prices fluctuate daily according to supply and demand. The rarer and more precious a metal is, the more limited it is in availability. Rarity can drive demand, making a rare metal, like platinum or gold, more likely to maintain its value over time.

Lifespan

Consider a metal's ability to withstand daily wear and tear, as well as the longevity of its fashionableness. For example, while tungsten is highly durable, it is not considered a precious metal.

Hypoallergenicity

Hypoallergenic metals minimize the possibility of an irritating allergic reaction. Purer metals like platinum and titanium tend to be hypoallergenic, posing little risk of potential irritation.

Strength

All metals will scratch and even occasionally dent. However, some metals, like titanium and tungsten, are scratch resistant.

Restoration Factor

Can the metal be reconditioned to make your jewelry look new? Some metals can be easily restored. While durable and strong, others, like tungsten, cobalt, and titanium, may not take as well to the reconditioning and cannot be resized.

Rarity

The rarer the metal, the more expensive it will be. Therefore, items made of platinum and gold will generally be more costly than other metals.

Heft

Some appreciate the weighty feel of jewelry, while others prefer to feel like they are wearing nothing at all. Platinum is the densest and heaviest metal—40% heavier than gold. Titanium and stainless steel are among the lightest.
Jewelry Metals Guide | Zales