Jewelry Metals Guide

There couldn't be fine jewelry without metals—and the variety of metals available makes jewelry affordable for just about anyone. If you're wondering what metals are best for jewelry, the best answer is—it depends.

Zales offers jewelry made with traditional metals like gold, silver, and platinum, along with modern metals like tungsten, stainless steel, titanium, and more. Here's a look at what kinds of metals are popular in jewelry and how they are used today.

Yellow gold has a long legacy. From the crowns and jewelry of royal families in all cultures to the go-to wedding band color from the 1960s-1980s, the popularity of yellow gold has fluctuated, but it never loses its inherent value.

Gold is naturally yellow, but its natural warmth is enhanced when silver or copper is added. The amount of pure gold in the jewelry depends on its karat. The higher the karat, the greater the purity and the lower the durability.

Yellow gold is also the most hypoallergenic of all gold types.

Rose gold has been around since the early 1900s but became much more prominent with the popularity of "Millennial Pink." The soft color is tied to love and romance and is a trendy gift choice, including engagement rings.

A lustrous pink metal, rose gold can range from red rose to pink gold shades. To create the pink color of rose gold, pure gold is combined with copper and, occasionally, silver.

Rose gold does not need to be dipped or coated as the color is pure. It's not considered hypoallergenic and does require more polishing than other golds to maintain its shine.

Gold Karat

To determine the karat gold used in a piece of jewelry, check its markings, also called its hallmark. This is usually found on the inside of the shank or the reverse side of a pendant, earring, or bracelet. Here's what to look for:

Karat Gold Hallmarks

Karat Measure	Hallmarks	Hardness	Gold Purity
24 karat	-	Softest	100%
22 karat	916/22K	Softer	91.6%
18 karat	750/18K	Average	75.0%
14 karat	585/14K	Harder	58.8%
10 karat	417/10K	Hardest	41.7%

Rare and precious, platinum is a bright white metal thirty times rarer than gold. It's shiny, beautiful, and will last for generations—an excellent choice for jewelry.

When used in jewelry, it's usually mixed with similar metals— iridium, palladium, ruthenium, rhodium, or osmium. For a piece of jewelry to be labeled as platinum, it must have a purity of at least 90% platinum. Look for the hallmark "PLAT" stamped on the inside of the shank (rings) or the back of the piece.

Once considered even more valuable than gold, silver is the most affordable of all the precious metals today. Because pure silver is too soft to be used in jewelry making, it's mixed with copper or other metal to create sterling silver, which is more durable.

Sterling silver can range from bright white to grayish white and have a matte or shiny finish. Silver tends to tarnish and scratch easily, so always store your sterling silver jewelry in tarnish-preventative bags and in a cool, dry place.

Intrinsic Value

Intrinsic value equates to a metal's basic worth. Metal prices fluctuate daily according to supply and demand. The rarer and more precious a metal is, the more limited it is in availability. Rarity can drive demand, making a rare metal, like platinum or gold, more likely to maintain its value over time.

Lifespan

Consider a metal's ability to withstand daily wear and tear, as well as the longevity of its fashionableness. For example, while tungsten is highly durable, it is not considered a precious metal.

Hypoallergenicity

Hypoallergenic metals minimize the possibility of an irritating allergic reaction. Purer metals like platinum and titanium tend to be hypoallergenic, posing little risk of potential irritation.

Strength

All metals will scratch and even occasionally dent. However, some metals, like titanium and tungsten, are scratch resistant.

Restoration Factor

Can the metal be reconditioned to make your jewelry look new? Some metals can be easily restored. While durable and strong, others, like tungsten, cobalt, and titanium, may not take as well to the reconditioning and cannot be resized.

Rarity

The rarer the metal, the more expensive it will be. Therefore, items made of platinum and gold will generally be more costly than other metals.

Heft

Some appreciate the weighty feel of jewelry, while others prefer to feel like they are wearing nothing at all. Platinum is the densest and heaviest metal—40% heavier than gold. Titanium and stainless steel are among the lightest.